Les Gaillands
Our first day in Chamonix, and a very mixed forecast, so we stuck to the bolted cragging at Les Gaillands.





Our first day in Chamonix, and a very mixed forecast, so we stuck to the bolted cragging at Les Gaillands.
On an unassuming hill just south west of Bad Reichenhall, Al and I found a large cliff with a number of long, bolted lines including our choice for the morning: Die Schönheitskönigin von Schneizlreuth. With the exception of the detached, multi-storey flake which forms part of one belay, the climbing was excellent and a nice gentle end to a weekend of exceptional rock routes.
SLAB EUPHORIA! A sweaty, two and a half hour morning approach to Hoher Nock was totally worth it for these incredible water-worn runnels. Bridging to glory for 180m with Al, Platteneuphorie fully delivered on its name.
The west face of Hoher Göll is a stunning rock amphitheatre with a simple approach and long, sparsely bolted lines. A huge section of late-season snow made our approach to Jubiläumsweg particularly exciting, with the bottom pitch or more completely buried, and a large bergschrund to get lost inside. We were probably the first on it this season, given the amount of loose rock and dirt, but due to all our lost time we managed only half the route before abbing down.
Clay's final day out in Austria, and we drove out towards Chiemsee for an alpine-style traverse of the Kampenwand. This distinctive ridgeline is accessed by a very ancient lift, so ancient that it had broken down by lunchtime. The ridgeline was a great mixture of moving together, soloing, short pitched sections on solid rock and a couple of abseils. Would make a great winter traverse with an approach on skis...
After yesterday's failures, we stayed low and climbed a great pair of bolted lines (Atemlos and Reise durchs gelobte Land) on the Ewige Wand above Bad Goisern.